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edward granville browne

A Year Amongst the Persians

First published 1893 · Cambridge edition, 1926, with a memoir by Sir E. Denison Ross
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contents

i
Edward Granville Browne: A Memoir, by Sir E. Denison Ross
That one of the world’s most fascinating and instructive books of travel should have been allowed to remain out of print for many years is…
ii
Exordium
(DEDICATED TO THE PERSIAN READER ONLY)
iii
Introductory
I have so often been asked how I first came to occupy myself with the study of Eastern languages that I have decided to devote the opening…
iv
From England to the Persian Frontier
So at last I was really to go to Persia. About that there could be no question. For I had long determined to go if I got the chance; and…
v
From the Persian Frontier to Tabríz
(Ḥáfiz̤, rendered by Herman Bicknell.)
vi
From Tabríz to Ṭeherán
On Monday, 7th November, bidding farewell to our kind host, we quitted Tabríz as we had entered it, with Farach’s animals, which we had…
vii
Ṭeherán
HITHERTO I have, in describing my travels, followed pretty closely the journals which I kept during their continuance, only amplifying such…
viii
Mysticism, Metaphysic, and Magic
THE most striking feature of the Persians as a nation is their passion for metaphysical speculation. This passion, so far from being…
ix
From Ṭeherán to Iṣfahán
ALTHOUGH, owing to the kindness of my friends, life in the capital was pleasant enough to make me in no hurry to leave it, nevertheless the…
x
Iṣfahán
JULFÁ is, as I have said, situated at some distance from Iṣfahán, and to walk from the Mission-House to the bazaars requires the best part…
xi
From Iṣfahán to Shíráz
ONCE again the vicissitudes and charms of the road are before me, but in this case a new and potent factor, hitherto absent, comes in to…
xii
Shíráz
To the three weeks which I spent in Shíráz I look back with unmixed pleasure. The associations connected with it are familiar to every…
xiii
Shíráz (continued)
In attempting to convey a correct impression of past events, it is often difficult to decide how far their true sequence may be disregarded…
xiv
From Shíráz to Yezd
(ḤÁFIẒ, translated by Herman Bicknell.)
xv
Yezd
(ḤÁFIZ̤, translated by Herman Bicknell.)
xvi
Yezd (continued)
IN the last chapter I have spoken chiefly of the Zoroastrians; in this I propose to say something concerning my dealings with the Bábís of…
xvii
From Yezd to Kirmán
FIVE men and five beasts constituted the little company in which I quitted Yezd. Besides myself and my horse, there was Amír Khán, one of…
xviii
Kirmán Society
IN no town which I visited in Persia did I make so many friends and acquaintances of every grade of society, and every shade of piety and…
xix
Amongst the Ḳalandars
On the afternoon of this notable day, about four hours before sunset, I went into the town to pay some visits, leaving Sheykh Ibráhím…
xx
From Kirmán to England
It was on Sunday morning that I parted with my horse, and my departure was arranged for the following Tuesday. On that day, while paying a…